Up2Stream AMP2.1 clicking sounds


I have a problem with my Up2Stream AMP2.1. In the left channel, constant clicking sounds with a frequency of several hertz. This happens regardless of the selected signal source and always only on one channel. I suspect that this is some kind of defect on the board. Has anyone encountered such a problem? Any ideas how to solve this problem?

The amplifier is placed in a metal case. The power supply is a modified ATX power supply. The power supply is placed in a separate metal case. WiFi and Bluetooth antennas are placed outside. Replacing the power supply with 19V / 60W from a laptop - the same result. 400 W lab power supply - same result.

Hi @Irek

Welcome to the forum :slight_smile:

I can’t help you with this problem but I am pretty sure I have seen some posts on clicking sounds fairly recently. Try searching around a bit on the Forum.

Kind Regards, Kevin

Thanks Kevin!
Indeed, I found a description of a similar problem. I wrote directly to Arylic.

I asked a question and I will answer it myself.

It may not have been the best idea to use an old DVD drive case, but this form factor seemed convenient for both the power supply and the amplifier. The problem is that short-circuited circuits occur inside the closed case. And since the WiFi module is not shielded, a lot of interference and noise is induced on the analog parts of the board. The left channel op amp is closest to the Wi-Fi module and produces the most noise.

Empirically, I found a very simple and effective solution to the problem of WiFi noise and interference - this is antistatic packaging.

First, I prepared a paper template.

Then I cut out the shield from the antistatic bag.

I have noticed that interference is eliminated more effectively if the shield is located as close to the board as possible. Therefore, I glued it to the board with double-sided tape.

The shield on the bottom side of the board is also spectacular, despite the fact that the bottom of the case is located close to each other.

The WiFi module is also shielded.

The contact of the board with the metal case remained only at one point near the power connector.

After all the improvements came the long-awaited silence! And even with a close location of the WiFi antenna, noise does not appear. The amplifier has finally taken its place on the bookshelf.


:+1: @Irek

so if I understood Isolation using anti static materials seems to have done the trick ?

Great that you posted pictures of your solution. Let’s hope it’s no clicking long term :crossed_fingers:

Regards, Kevin

Yes Kevin, the problem was solved completely! Apparently, the main component of these interferences is electric fields. Magnetic fields film would hardly help.

Now it is possible to listen to music very quietly, even at night when the house is quiet! It used to be such a pain.

It’s funny how I came to this. I experimented with a metal shield, and to avoid short circuits, I put it in an anti-static bag that I had on my desk. Then I discovered that the whole effect is from the package, and not from the metal.

Let me remind you once again that the maximum effect of the film should be pressed to the board as close as possible.

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Thanks for the tips. I certainly won’t throw away anti static packaging anymore :joy: :+1:

I am really interested in the case. Is this something you made yourself? It looks like you printed some custom parts? Very nice work. I am currently looking to make some cases for my devices and have no experience designing something like this.

Awesome work.


@ NWT.Stuff
Kevin, don’t throw it away! This is very useful stuff! Sometimes :slightly_smiling_face:

I had several old DVD drives, an old 250W ATX PSU, and an Up2Stream 2.1 board. I wanted to make a compact music system for my workplace. The system had to fit on a shelf 200mm deep.

The power supply has been redesigned for a height of 35 mm and a voltage of 24V. I have saved a backup voltage to power the Arylic via USB. This allows me to turn the power on and off using the remote control.

I drew the necessary parts of the cases and printed them on a 3D printer. I can share models, but DVD cases are different and my parts may not fit yours.

Here are some more photos:

The IR receiver is soldered directly to the wires. I was too lazy to make a printed circuit board for LEDs, so I used light guides, as I like :slight_smile:

This is the power supply:

The power supply transfers heat directly to the chassis through a large thermal pad.

For the power supply, I chose the oldest DVD drive. Then they did not save iron yet and its case is very thick and does not have stampings for additional rigidity. I put a small 40mm fan, but it only turns on when the heatsink of the power supply is heated above 60 degrees Celsius, but it is always silent

The legs have small neodymium magnets. Therefore, the components are well attracted to each other. So if Arylic invents some other interesting device, then it can be put on the third floor :rofl:

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What a great job, you are very skilled!

Also, thank you for the detailed information.

Hey @all
I Dont wanna call into doubt this solution, but i faced with the same issue today with an easier way of fixing :slight_smile:

I recognized that the clicking and buzzing changed or even more dissappeared, when I switched the Position of WLAN Antenna and the cable and I did so long until the clicking disappeared completely.

This is where I ended up:

Sorry for the bad pics, the arylic is attached behind my tv:))

Iam not sure it will help everyone - but you should give it a try I think