My Andriod 14 phone can connect through bluetooth to the BP50. However, using the GoControl App, it’s stuck on Select Device (Loading). 40 minutes+ and nothing has changed. I’m logged into GoControl and emailed them about the issue; no response.
Any suggestions?
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yeah this one is super annoying
the problem is that the BP50 has two BT modes… one is when you’re just connecting a phone to stream mp3 via BT…
you cannot get Go Control to work while in this mode.
i think it has to be in some other mode
also i found that it works best on a new fast phone… the app just sucks on anything slower
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Same thing for me, the app doesn’t work and they don’t answer. Maybe it is linked with the firmware ? My BP50 is from october 2023 and I can’t load a newer version without the app…
I’m pretty much disapointed with this product.
I tried what you say and it doesn’t work either…
I finally got it to work. With the your phone connected to the BP50 through Bluetooth, uninstall GoControl. Then reinstall it. Launch GoControl, give it full access, and it will find the BP50.
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Hi all,
I had the same issue and solved it by connecting the BP50 through Bluetooth and by activating gps on the phone before searching devices within the app.
I had the same problem with a pair of TWS BT in-ear and still don’t undestrand why I have to enable gps but it worked.
Thanks a lot. I used both tips and it works !
@drbis84 @Roy.Batty @TonyJZX @casillas227
Hello everyone, If your app cannot find the device, please try to active
- Location Access(GPS)
- Bluetooth Access
This is due to we use BLE technology, thanks!
Hi Joy,
I have encountered exactly the same issue described below - the GO Control app is locked in perpetual ‘Waiting For Connection’ and I have never the ‘Select Device’ which used to appear before the main screen. I can link with BT to my mobile and play music and I can control the Input Selection but I cannot get the main screen back which is the one I have been using for about 2 years. How can I recover it? I have followed the comments in this thread with no luck and done a Factory Reset - still no go.
Another unresolved BUG for the BP50/Go Control App.
Does the Arylic Support Team really exists???
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GO CONTROL v2.0.22, Mini v4.6.415145.34
I could not get the GO CONTROL to find the Mini. I had to use 4Stream to do the setup, and the source selection (Tunein). Thereafter, I was able to bring up GO CONTROL but could only view the selected Tunein station and change the equalizer settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am planning to implement the Arylic Mini’s in vintage radios but my fear is the stability of the software and products.
Try rebooting the phone. I restarted mine, and GoControl was able to connect
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I just turned my B50SE on and could not get the controls ie equalizer to show -and nothing and I tried all the solutions here.
Just got the BP50 last night and it sounds good enough that I can’t really tell it’s even in my system, typically I have wired my phone into a DBX dual 31 band EQ to be my preamp and then its to an active crossover a big carver 300w x2 amp and QSC GX5 powering a set of martin Logan Prodigy with the carved on panels and the QSC on woofers. I got BD50 so I could connect my TV to my system and have a remote. I’m surprised by the quiet noise free sound and it was simple to connect the app to thepre but I have no control over anything with the remote and the app only worked the first time I used it and now it won’t connect to the BD50 anymore by simply turning on Bluetooth and pairing it.
The remote has never done anything yet, is there something im missing? I figured a remote should work with new batteries and yet I see nothing happening in the pre and there’s no active light on the remote telling me it’s sending anything. The TV remote adjusts the HDMI output level from the TV no problem. There’s a news channel that only comes in mono on the left dpeaker, weird, the HDMI sound is ok with no noises so far. When I want to change sources or adjust volume for USB playback the knob will quickly cycle through all lights and go back to HDMI or USB or whatever it stops at. Then I click the knob and it changes sources but it won’t adjust the volume.
The second I put the USB in it immediately starts playing, but it only plays songs that are not in a folder. I can’t advance to the next song or even select anything not even volume from the app after the first time I used it and then never has done anything. It’s a good thing I got lucky and set the volume through the pre at a low output and had to have my TV turned up way further than when I use it’s tiny speakers. I was very concerned that when I switched sources the first few times it would come blasting since I had no way to control the volume.
One more thing, why am I signing in to this site and struggling to do it when I’m auto signed in on ecery other thing I have signed in once before using Google.
Not having any control over anything is not what I expected since I had no problem pairing the my phone to use the app that first time. I was able to enter the settings and set the output for the sub output to 250Hz which is one of the main reasons I got this! It will make it possible for me to remove the active crossover I’ve been using since I bypassed the internal Logan woofer crossover so my speakers are able to play bass tones properly without being destroyed by Logan’s built in one size fits all room mode compensation circuit that robs the bass from these otherwise beautiful sounding speakers.
I’m now running a second Carver amp (PM950 475wpc @ 4Ω) in dual mono @ 2Ω for woofer duty since the QSC GX5 isn’t bridgeable or dual mono capable meaning I couldn’t run that sub output in both channels nor could it be bridged.
The response is far better than I expected, I returned a Topping DX50ii due to its terrible sound, it lacked HDMI and I was forced to try the Optical output from my TV and it sounded awful, the Bluetooth was also s major disappointment since it lost all realism in the music. I had the same issue with every DSP unit I’ve tried and the topping was exactly the same as the others. I’m trying to avoid AD to DA conversion after the source. My $24 Pyle sound interface I got for connecting a calibrate mic with phantom power to my comp for sweep tests. The Pyle had no sound loss over Bluetooth, the Topping also had no USB player. So I had only the Bluetooth to work with and after a few hours I was sending it back.
Their app did work properly and it was the easiest DSP parametric set up I’ve ever used for DSP. Most are awful and take days to get anything set up. 20 minutes and I was done but the sound that came from that piece was awful. I was very concerned when I ordered this due to what I saw on ASR. Generally I don’t follow whats done there simply because numbers are meaningless when the pieces they rate so highly sound awful but are super quiet. Plus I don’t buy into these tiny boxes as being worth the time to use them no matter what the price. But I took the chance and I’m glad I did, if I could get the remote or the app working I’d be delighted.
There’s more settings I’d like to get to and that leads me up to my last question, does the $20 extra settings app work with this piece? What extra control will I get? It looked like the go app seems to cover what I’d ever need but there’s a few things I’d like to be able to do. A tiny incremental balance is very important with my speakers since the image center will shift ever so slightly from perfect center when a new album plays. Once set it goes back to perfect center until a different producer changes it a bit. It’s noticable with the electrostatic speakers perfection in your head sound, which I still have and actually believe the sound I’m getting now is even better than my phone wired into the EQ (which was my perfect balance setter before).
Another setting would be phase angle adjustment for each output . Almost forgot to ask if the sub output setting sets a highpass on the full range outputs when activated? I could test it but it should be posted in specs.
I have to say that I’m glad I found this, it wasn’t easy it’s not in any sites, it’s shown in search results but I didn’t even know it existed so I couldn’t search for it and while I was looking for issues with the topping, the model numbers are close enough that a misstype will bring this up in search results but only 1 link on the entire web took me to the page I could find specs and order one, I had no idea of that fact and when I closed my tablet and tried to return to your site, I couldn’t find it. I had to recreate my misspelled search and found that link.
This piece has everything I needed exactly fitting in my system seamlessly accomplishing what I never thought would ever be done and under $100 on top of it. I had already ordered the topping for $350 and I ordered a Motiva pre but noticed it jacked the HDMI input and canceled it, it was also $350.
It has replaced 2 large pieces of quality grear and sounds even better, I have no need to do any tuning since I’m seeing the best sweep results ever with everything set to flat! It really does sound incredible as I listen to it for the first time right now. I wish it would go louder though. I can turn up one amp but not the other so I’m stuck till I figure out the remote and app issues. Came here to see if there was any info posted. I see this is a common issue and that worries me. Without the remote I’m not happy, that was the main reason I got it, but the TV volume will work on the TV sound so I can wait a bit. Not being able to adjust the volume on the unit itself worries me the most since I have no way to change the volume at all!
I wanted to make sure this piece gets a fair review by someone who has a system that allows me to hear every single imperfection in my system silence is golden and so far this is the quietest and best sounding thing I’ve bought in years, if this sounds bad, you have a bad system to start with. I’ve heard nothing unusual and zero background noise. The sub acting as the crossover was perfect for me since I needed to hit 250Hz I never thought I’d be able to use any sub outputs but I was amazed to find it will allow you to 300Hz! That’s fantastic since I hate setting anything to max settings. Now you just need to make some 600W x2 (20-20kHz both channels driven) amps that can drive 2Ω loads without a fan and I’ll be back to finish my system off with Arylic gear. This piece is far better than anything I saw posted for sale and I’m thinking you are hiding it so you can sell the 100 for much more and get nothing I could use. I feel very lucky I got one. My guess is they will be discontinued very soon which would be a mistake,
TY for reading!
I have some updates, it turns out I got a bad pack of batteries and got the remote working without issue, yeah!
I really think that not allowing us to turn off the auto play is not good, when I try to stop the USB from playing I had to physically go pull it from the input but then it automatically switched to the HDMI port which could have the volume set way higher from the HDMI output that uses the TVs volume control on that output. Depending on which channel I was last watching the volume could be much louder and it comes on instantly when the USB is pulled. I only use those 2 inputs but I’m wondering which inputs it defaults to if I were using 3 inputs? I haven’t had time to try and get the go app connected once again. Why did it ask me to turn on my location just to send a Bluetooth signal? This is the only device I’ve ever seen that needed. In fact it’s the only app that I ever gave that control.
If location is mandatory to operate I’ll be removing the app and just use the remote since id have to close the app and reopen it just to use it. Can the extra settings app for $20 only work when it’s connected to a computer? I’m guessing it’s not a phone or tablet app but an actual Windows program, I probably would not use that if that’s the case. It really needs to be made to use with a phone or tablet even if it needs to be done with a wired connection. The only people using computers daily are gamers and people who work at home and they’re probably using laptops.
Must keep current with the shifting times and stop making windows programs completely, more people hate windows than anything in the entire world, it’s probably a good reason to not get the additional access no matter what it can do or how much it costs, people just hate windows and bill Gates.
So far I’ve found the sound to be fantastic and it’s doing exactly what I hoped it would do. I should have bought 2 right away and got the 15% off deal. Owning a back up of anything has always resulted in never needing to use the back up, like insurance, the first one will never break unless you can’t find another one.
Well after using this app for a few months it only gets worse, it randomly connects and then it disconnects and won’t reconnect ever again! This is so frustrating it’s to a point where I wish I had another way to make changes to settings and since I didn’t pay much for this I’m thinking it’s time to break my ties with acrylic completely. I see they have put no effort into fixing any issues with the BP50 (which is the only piece I saw that had any real world use). I can’t turn it off without fear of damaging something since I use power amps that don’t even have a power switch and require me to unplug them before turning it off.
Just the fact that this piece has such a terrible super loud snapping noise coming through with 1200 watts of power behind it on the highs and another 1500watts popping and snapping on the wooders. Sunfire amps have no on off switches and no balance or anything, they’re just raw power and not a good match when paired with tiny things that are meant to work with tiny 50w amps. It’s been just a few months and my exposure to Chinese audio has opened my eyes and made me wonder what people see in this junk.
Topping was even worse than this and they’re the holy grail on ASR website! It all comes down to real world use, you can list all the features in the world and it means nothing when you can’t even use the device as intended. Tests are really meaningless in the real world since they only show you what you should have without question . Everyone expects a pre to have 110+db noise level once it’d at that level, it makes no difference since it can’t be heard, yet that seems to be the highest held aspect for Chinese tiny things .
Worrying about hitting the off button should never come into play in 2026! Nothing that’s made in 2026 has power off and on noise except for this and it’s not just a faint thump like you might get from a piece made 50 years ago or autoselecting another source if you turn off the source that’s currently active and having the USB stick suddenly instantly blaring in the middle of the night unexpectedly while I am furiously looking for the remote, that I never use since I have 4 tv remotes that control the volume 90% of the time. I end up having to jump to unplug the USB and I make sure that there is nothing else it can switch to.
The USB player is just so terrible I have been looking into buying a separate piece but I have since started using my TV’s USB player till I find a new pre, sounds the same and is 100 times easier to use since it has a video showing me songs and I can easily skip ahead of pick out sings from a list . The TV is really a poor excuse for a media player but it’s still 100 times better than the piece that you’d think was designed to play music but won’t play anything from a folder or be able to use with any size USB drives that have any capacity since it’s limited on how many files it can access from the drive, you’ll find yourself skipping through 900 files just to play something at the end of the list. I don’t think I’ve ever heard every song on a 32gb USB thumb drive yet. After a few hours I’m at the same piont trying to skip fijes and just have enough of it and pull it out.
The app won’t show anything that’s on the drive so what good is it? If you are able to connect it to your phone, the next time you go to make a change it’s disconnected for no reason and refuses to connect no matter what you do short of uninstalling it and reinstalling so it will work 1 time.
That’s considered a final version of the app? I don’t know anyone who’d call that ready for public use? Theres only a few things that are keeping this from being a usable product and it’s all software related issues . A simple mute on start up and shut down can’t be that hard to configure, the auto switching can’t be hard to disable and I hope they didn’t think that was a good idea in the first place, who thinks like that. You never have any pieces doing anything unless you tell it to! What’s next , auto volume setting? And why include such a limited USB player when you could use that hardware/software to solve the other issues that would make it at least work properly for those who have huge amps that are always running at 100% output!
Now I see Arylic makes nothing I’d ever be interested in buying at any price yet they jacked up the cost of everything, tiny low watt amps and multi room streamers ? Why bother when I know the software will be unusable to try and control anything and why not just put a stereo in each room and forget the complicated, non-functional, connection dropping app! It makes no sense to spend hundreds on Bluetooth amps that most likely will lose their connection and have you pulling your hair out trying to get the app working. No thanks. Rethink your strategy because you have lost your minds thinking people will see your ideas as usable working systems after being exposed to this piece.
I wish I could say something good but I’ve struggled using this and it’s only a few months old. I’ll find something even cheaper that will do as I want. To think all I wanted was to have tv sound coming through my system and have a remote . I can do that without this piece by using the headphone jack output. My TV never stops the connection . But wait I forgot this thing will constantly try to connect to everything Bluetooth at any time interfering with connecting with other things I have to limit my phone to only allow 1 Bluetooth connection at a time and I see my phone constantly saying I’m at max connections and need to increase the amount.
The crossover is the best thing about it since it goes up high enough to use on my woofers it covers the frequency that my speakers electrostatic panels are made to stop playing (250Hz), that will be difficult to find built into another device but I still have a few active crossovers to do that if I need it. It does have silent operation as long as it’s always left on so there are a few things that are good.
I hate to have to complain but I feel a good explanation from me to alert others of what I’ve found was needed so buyers can expect these issues and access if it’s going to work out for them. I saw none of this posted anywhere, I sure wish I would have known so it wasn’t learned afterwards.
Sorry Arylic but you need to step up your game and start thinking about what’s important to buyers . High power amps are a must in a market flooded with supposed 300w x2 amps (probably never achieve that output, but i don’t even see that option available here). I’m done with Chinese audio for a very long time, I’ll pay more for quality well thought out user based designs with proper working software and predictable playback and connections . Preferably with a screen to tell me what’s going on will be a for sure necessity on my next pre.