Hi all,
There is my first speaker build with a 2.1 amplifier board, I’m really impressed with the quality of the sound and all the features that you have available.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPTHcKvjIgc/?utm_medium=copy_link
If you want to be informed about my future works follow me, if anyone have any question don’t hesitate to contact me on the forum.
Thanks!
Joan
Wow Joan, the wooden design looks pretty great and premium! I like it.
I advice you can share your DIY process and some photos here!
Hi Joan,
Congratulations, that’s a very nice build 
, thanks for sharing. Nice to see that you used the 9pin-connector of the Up2Stream board to build your own control panel. I had a similar idea for my boombox but used a rotary encoder for volume control.
Would you mind sharing some more technical details? Dimensions of the box, which speakers you use, which power supply, stuff like that. Thanks a lot in advance.
Best regards,
Sven
Hi,
At the moment I don’t have the dimensions, when come back to the workshop I will post it here.
For the speakers I used Aiyima speakers, you can find it in aliexpress, I was using it in some others builds always with a very good quality/price relation. Each speaker has a 4 ohm impedance.
The subwoofer is a 200w and the yellow one are a 80w coaxial full range speakers.
I used a basic 24V-260w power supply but i added a filter for the DC after it to avoid noises, if you follow the DC cables you will see the filter.
I also used a filter for the line in (not installed when I take the picture) that isolate the source from the speaker. I tested it with a vinyl player and it filtered the noise very well.
For the top control panel, I added some buttons, you only have to weld one resistor with the proper value for each button and that’s all. At the beginig I become a little bit crazy because the manual is not correct and part of the circuit that the manual say that do you need is already implemented in the board. I recommend to Arylic to update it.
I joint the led lights in one rgb led (middle one in the control panel). It’s true that i’m not going to use the USB port and i missed that one, having 3 modes and 3 lines in the rgb led. If you want 4 colors probably you can use a RGBW led and have all the modes in one led. There are other options also to have diferent colors.
I hope all this information helps you, if you have any quation regarding any specific component don’t hesitate to ask me.
Thanks for all the useful information.
Unfortunately, RGB leds did not come to my mind when designing my control panel. Would have saved me quite some space to just have one led instead of four. Probably, a standard RGB led would have been sufficient when mixing the fourth “color”, white, from the other colors using some logic.
Your information that part of the resistor network is already on the board would have been quite important when I built the Pause/Next control. I built the complete resistor network externally and wondered why the resistor values printed in the manual did not result in the expected functions. By trial-and-error, I found values that worked correctly (smaller than the recommended ones). So, I assume the pullup resistor is already on the board and by adding my own external pullup resistor I moved all the control voltage levels. Right?
I already reported the deviating resistor values to Arylic back then but they only said something about installing a new firmware. I did not try this and if it is really a “hardware problem” when the firmware probably would not fix it (unless they would change the hard-coded voltage levels in the firmware). Would also prefer a correction of the manual so that other users do not fall into the same trap as us.
Yes, there’s a internal 10K resistor on board and you should not place another on the keyboard. We have improved the manual already.
Btw, for the PROV3 board, the situation is a bit different as the driving voltage of ADC is 3.6V instead of 3.3V, so we have adjusted the firmware for the new voltage.
Thanks for updating it and avoid this trap to the following makers.
Joan
hey ethan,
see my post :https://forum.arylic.com/t/up2stream-mini-v1-pro-1-mini-v3-amp-v3-problems/153
thanks for the solution with the pull up res.!!
Hello Jörg,
Thanks for pointing me to your post. I was about to install the latest firmware to my Amp 2.1 board but after reading your post I will refrain from doing it. With the firmware currently installed all functions I use (especially regarding external buttons) seem to work correctly and I don’t want to break any of these functions for no reason. The only problem I currently observe is that the board sometimes (after a couple of songs) loses the Bluetooth connection and has to be switched off/on. Don’t know whether this is a common problem or just caused by the Bluetooth source I use (Samsung S10).
Viele Grüße aus BW,
Sven
