Amazing job, your hands have magic!
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Thank you! 
Hi Janosch,
Congratulations, the speakers look gorgeous. I know what you mean regarding the wood prices, we should start making speaker cabinets from gold to lower production costs 
.
Since veneering the front and back of my boombox almost drove me to despair: What’s your award-winning technique? Using heat, pressure, or Pattex? Veneering first or cutting first? Thanks a lot in advance.
Best regards,
Sven
(Grüße aus der Rhein-Neckar-Region)
Hey Sven,
I used saraifo veneer (which is not like normal veneer - look it up its amazing stuff).
First i apply woodglue with a paintroller to both surfaces. While they start drying i heat my iron to max temperature (cotton).
After about 10 minutes the woodglue starts to become transparent and dry to the touch.
When its at the point that it wont stick on my finger anymore when touching it lightly,
i will put the veneer to the mdf. I put a sheet of bakingpaper on top of the saraifo veneer and then start ironing it with some pressure and i pay some extra attention to the edges. It only takes a minute or 2 and the veneer is applied.
Now i cut the veneer along the edges with a sharp cutterknife leaving a bit leftover and not cutting too close to the edge. Then i will sand down the remaining veneer with a very fine sandpaper glued to a pice of mdf (so its flat).
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Hi Janosch,
Thanks for the detailed description. I checked SaRAiFo at the beginning of my project but then decided to use “normal” mahogany. The approach you described was the first I tried. I tried it at some test pieces and it looked quite good but when I noticed some cracks in the veneer. Maybe it was just faulty veneer, the iron was too hot, the humidity of the veneer was to high/low, or whatever. Probably, it was just me. My second attempt was to use just pressure but this did not work at all. Unless you have a (heated) veneer press, it is very hard to reach the pressure needed. Finally, I tried the Pattex method and it worked well (except for the fumes). Like you, I also used hardoil for the surface finish. Since I only veneered the front and the back and both are a bit recessed, at least the cutting of the edges was easy. I just used a trimming cutter (Bündigfräser).
Best regards.
Sven
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Wow, Respekt! Ein wirkliches Schmuckstück ist dir da gelungen! 
Zwei, drei Photos vom Elektronik-Innenleben würden mich persönlich noch interessieren.
Tolle Arbeit. 
Wow, respect! A real gem you have done there!
Two or three photos of the electronics would interest me personally.
However, really great work.
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Thanks, im happy you like it! The electronic part isnt even that interesting imho. Its just the board with a lot of cable extensions to bring everything to the backpanel. The only extrathing i did was extended the rgb led and ir reciever from the board
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For sure, for me it IS interesting! 
what?
Hi @fi3ur.
Do you have a electrical drawing of how to extend the rgb lamp as I would like To do this for this project. IP66 Nobby Box
Many thanks in advance Kevin
Hey, youll need a JST PH 2.0 cable to connect to the board. you can find the pinout in the user manual of the arylic amp. you will need a common cathode rgb led. put a 1k resistor before every anode connection of the led. Thats it
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Yup, feel free to ask if something isnt working
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@fi3ur It’s not working with Common Cathode LEDs. When I measure the pins it seems to me I need “common anode” and the manual seems to indicate this too !
Can you confirm your solution ? Are we working with the same product ?
Regards Kevin
Oh im sorry i mustve remembered it wrong 
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No Worries. I should have read the Manual First not Last 
Final Solution working OK.
Hardware photographs can be found here Nobby Box - IR Remote Control & Status Lamp Upgrade
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perfect craftsmanship
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