3 ways active speakers boombox Bluetooth & Wifi with Arylic Amp 2.1

just finished my new pyramid boombox equipped with:

  • 1 Sub TANG BAND W5-1138SMF
  • 2 passive DAYTON AUDIO DSA115-PR
  • 1 medium Monacor MSH-116
  • 1 ribbon tweeter FOUNTEK NEO CD 3.5H
  • 1 Arylic Amp 2.1

The objective was to get strong bass and original design with a pyramid (base:25cm, height:70 cm). I struggled a bit with the wood cutting as most of the angles are not 90 degrees…
The small 5 inch sub plus the 2 passive speakers on the sides generates a impressive bass for such a small volume.
Very happy by the resulting sound and the clean bass from the amp 2.1 even at high volume.
I also used the ACP Workbench in order to set filters, with the medium on the right channel and tweeter on the left one, with a cut frequency at 3k5.
The result of this setup is obviously mono, but on such boombox, the left and right speakers are so close that you don’t get a good stereo effect anyhow.
Note that with ACP Workbench I set the output as the Left+Right input.
And the active filter is far more flexible than a passive filter for the tuning to the speakers tone.
with the ADC key I have configured 3 different Equalisation selected with buttons on the back: a loudness Eq to listen at low volume, a normal, and a Eq to boost the bass.

Some pictures:

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Nice Job Fabien @pogona06

I particularly like the form of the speakers. looks great :slight_smile:

I bet it sounds good too :+1:

Nice build. Great use of the 2.1 Amp in a 3-way design. Any temptation to create a second speaker and pair them? :smiley:

Good job :+1:t2:

Why not a pair indeed, but it’s not that cheap in total ( 200 euros just for the speakers). or just a small satellite without a sub is enough to get a good stereo dimension.
What is surprising is the amount of bass for such a small sub Tang Band of 5 inch. The 2 passive speakers associated with a closed box add a lot bass for sure, IF it is located at the proper position in the room.
But… it will never reach the level of my big sub equipped with Atohm speaker.

wow, like the casing, great project :+1:

Nice build :+1:. Never thought of a vertical boombox :open_mouth:.
One question: What are the three buttons on the back panel for? Are they used for switching input sources?
Regards, Sven

The 3 buttons in the back are used to change the equalizer presets.

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I would really like to understand how you can use the ACP workbench to create a biamped speaker stereo pair.

Elements of answers here: 2.1 Pyramid speakers with Arylic Amp 2.1 board | diyAudio

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Hey, thank you for your post. Im planung a 3-Way Mono speaker too and would be great to get some tips from you!
(Kind of something like the danish Soundboks. High dp Horn to get to like 123db)

I want to use a 1" Horn speaker with 30-50W, a middle/deep speaker in 4.5" with 50W and a 12" sub maybe.
So is it possible with the Workbench to tune the Left Channel to the Hornspeaker with like 3.500hz-60.000hz, and the Right Channel to the middle/deep and of course sub is L+R with only lower frequencies.

Do i need a physical filter or crossover for this or is it possible only using the workbench to get it to mono?

Im using the 2.1 Plate Amp and want to add a batteriepack to it too.

Thanks in advance!
Bense

I guess you can set the DAC output to Mono 1
image

and then EQ the Left, Right and sub channels to the desired crossover points.


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First of: should I open a new forum post for this maybe?

Thank you so much. I almost forgot to answer.
I used your tips and it kinda works but there is one more problem.
I bought the 1“ Horn tweeter from the box pro dsp 115 from thomann .de
Big thing! 45 Watt, 8ohm, 107dB sensivity and 1.5k-18k hz.
I have noise. Kinda like white noise when I’m pausing the music or playing it on lower volumes.
U thought I don’t need a high pass filter or condensator or something.
I’m not to familiar with the workbench Programm to make it stopping the noise. It’s only on the tweeter. (Very very quietly on the midtown speaker as well but not noticeable)
What do I have to do to get rid of it?
Any tips?

Edit: ignore my funny shoes! They are warm and comfy! :slight_smile:
Edit2: the midtone speakers are 50W rms each and have 8 ohms and are wired parallel so the outcome is 4 ohm.


I don’t have experience with the plate amp you are using. I have tried the 2.1-amp board, the B50 and B50SE and in my experience the lowest noise levels can be achieved when using the USB input with a decent USB data cable. I guess the reason USB sound is better than analogue input is that USB avoids an A2D conversion step. Many TV’s support USB audio these days. The sound quality from the 2.1 amp board takes a noticeable hit when using the 4 stream app. You can use a filter to cut above 20 kHz and possibly an EQ notch adjustment at the hiss frequency.

Your speaker looks interesting. Do you plan to build a cabinet or leave it open baffle?

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Thanks for the advise Wiliam!
I want to use it as a Bluetooth speaker kind of like the danish Soundboks.
I assembled it today and the sound is massive. Way too much bass. Have to turn that down. It’s closed now. So it looks like a cube.
The midtones have an extra compartment.

So usb is not an option.
Can I use apc workbench to turn off WiFi completely?
I used a condensator in front of the tweeter but that only changed the volume of it.
And I already cut it of at 18k hz but the hiss frequency is there even when it’s only turned on and nothing plays. So maybe it’s a fault from the board?

We’ve designed such API to hide input sources, but not released yet, we’ll need to upgrade the firmware. If you wish, could send a beta version for you. :slight_smile:

Yeah that would be great! I thought I have read something about that.
Maybe it’s the wireless lan.

Hello, where can i get this Beta? Or is the new Update for the 2.1 Amp that was released today the right one?